04 May, 2011

Commission - Jess

The loverly lady who gave me the idea for the eyelet skirt (M'Crack Skirts, Pt I) has now commissioned a bodice, skirt, and chemise. The entire project is an upcycle of old projects of hers - a 6yr old cloak and a set of curtains from her old apartment. Fun!

The only major trouble I've run into is that the pattern for the bodice isn't right in the proportions, forcing me to re-draft and re-shape some of the pattern pieces. Yay - A re-drafting project!!
Original Patterns:

Re-drafted Patterns:
After all the work involved in re-drafting the pattern for the bodice, it turns out that I didn't need 75% of the work I put into it! I really didn't realize just how squishy Jess is. All I really needed to do was increase each piece by one size. Geh! And it should be said, for the record, that I'm no longer allowed to sip on my favorite wine while working, especially while lacing bodices......

Also, I played with the idea of re-drafting the skirt pattern, but after much consideration, determined that adding four side panels would work better and provide a slightly fuller skirt for her.

Essentially, the skirt panels will be arranged like so :

              2               2
           2                     2
           2                     2                 (Instead of having only two #2
              2               2                           panels on each side)

And so begins the skirt! The closest thread I have is a lovely gold, but the worry I have is that I only have a partial spool and I'm also using it on my corset (New Corset, Update). So I'm debating using white or black thread on the body seams, which no one will see. I know that Jess wouldn't care, but it will still bother me, just because I know they don't match. After digging through my thread stash, however, I found a nice chocolate thread that looks nearly black on the spool, but is perfect for this particular fabric - just about a shade darker!.

Ok, so I've run into a small problem. The lovely suede cloth that she brought me won't allow the needle to pick up the bobbin thread. The exact machine set up stitches on cotton, but not on the suede-cloth. So, I have to puzzle on what to do. My current idea is tissue between the fabric layers to help the bobbin, but I'm going to have to discuss with some of my sewing peeps to find a solution. In the meantime, I'll work on the bodice to at least stay a little productive today! In a small way, I'm finding the fact that the bodice is going together without incident a little saddening. I kind of enjoy the puzzles and challenge of a non-cooperative project. But I'll also admit that it's nice not having to stress over at least one part of the project...I'm expecting the chemise to be as nice as well.

I am finding one issue with the bodice as it goes together (and this is consistent to the tissue pattern itself): the front and side pieces don't want to line up at the top and bottom. There is a princess seam, which I had anticipated, and kind of hoped, would take in some of the variance, but it took in very little (if any at all!!).

                                       Bottom Variance                                 Top Variance

I'll probably just end up trimming these down to fit and hiding the rest of the variance (what I can't trim) in the binding. But still! It's irritating that the original pattern does this, not just my redraft, though in all honesty, I should have tried to draft it out. After stitching the preliminary parts (and before attaching everything) and trying it on Jess one more time, it was determined that a dart was needed at the top of the bust curve:

Now onto the binding, which was a bit bitchy, but less than anticipated! :)

And here she is!!

[Image - bodice finished]

It's been a slow, gloomy start to this week and I've been feeling particularly un-motivated. So I decided to skip ahead a little and work on the chemise next...something simple, and not nearly as irritating as the skirt insists on being. Not really going to go into detail, there are two other chemises that I've done, and profiled, on here. This blog is long enough already!!


It turns out the solution to the suede-cloth fabric is Jess herself coming over to stitch! After consulting with her regarding the issue, she happily volunteered to come over and hand-stitch the skirt pieces, so long as they were patterned and pinned. So, yay! One less thing on my plate!

[Image - skirt stitching]

So, she got all of the irritating fabric stitched. Now it's up to me to find out if the newer material is machine-friendly. If it is, then I've got a seaming dream waiting for me for the remaining of the skirt. The newer material went together fine, and even attached to the suede wonderfully. After cutting and prepping the waistband, then attaching it while she worked on the hem, she has left with the mostly finished skirt, intent on hemming it while I finish my stuffs! Once I get a picture from Faire, I'll post the finished ensemble. Unfortunately my camera's being a butt today, so I'll have to come back and edit the brackets above, considering I can't currently get the pictures off the camera to upload them. Bear with me!!

[Image - Final!]

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